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My First Trip To Afghanistan Under Taliban Rule: A Surprising Welcome For A British Traveler!
Ark
November 18, 2024
Discovering the Heart of Afghanistan: A Journey of Culture, Nature, and Hospitality in 2024
Join us as we uncover the breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality of Afghanistan. From the bustling markets of Kabul to the serene lakes of Band-e-Amir, discover why Afghanistan should be on your travel list in 2024.
First Impressions of Afghanistan: My Journey Begins
So, I’ve told my parents I’m still in Pakistan. The truth is, we’re close, but that’s not exactly where I am. I am super excited to be here in Afghanistan, and now I just have to find my guide. But I have no idea where I’m going. You, you help? No? Okay, thank you. I don’t know where I’m going. My lovely guide, Muhammad John, said to just come and meet him under the shelter. I’m thinking, “Yeah, there are lots of shelters. Have you seen how many shelters there are?”
This is my first experience in Afghanistan. I’ve been very close before, flying in and out of Pakistan. I feel at home in Pakistan now, but Afghanistan is something new and very exciting. Let’s see where Muhammad John is. I’m just hoping I recognize him from the photo on WhatsApp. He said he’d have a card and assured me I couldn’t miss him. I forgot my glasses, so there’s a chance I could.
Oh, I love Afghanistan already. There are Afghan flags everywhere. I love Afghanistan. Where is this shelter? I don’t know where this guy is. I think I might have gone wrong. Okay, lost in Afghanistan on day one, 15 minutes after leaving the airport. Muhammad John was right, but at that moment, I didn’t realize you have to leave the airport before you meet anyone.
Maybe he’s out there. Is he going that way? I’ll just walk with you, if that’s okay. Do you have a YouTube channel? Yes? Look at this! I love Afghanistan. It’s impressive, isn’t it? Very nice. It’s about 5:00 in the evening, and the temperature is really nice. We flew over snowcapped mountains. I couldn’t believe it. It wasn’t what I expected. I thought it would be arid, but there was snow everywhere. It was incredibly beautiful, like the Swiss Alps.
Right, I still don’t know where I’m going. Really funny; is this a good idea? I’m going to leave the airport now. Somebody help me. Where is Muhammad John? Hello? Welcome to Afghanistan. Thank you so much. I learned a tiny bit of Pashto. I can say “taso s,” which means “how are you?” Yes, I know a little. This is my first time in Afghanistan. Now I just have to find my guide. He said, Under the shelter, let’s hope he’s here.
I found my guide! Thank you for checking. Everyone’s so friendly, just checking that I’m okay. And I can see Muhammad John. It’s made me feel a little bit better, and now we’re going out. Where is he? All the people coming for passengers — everybody’s been very friendly. So everyone in the airport is so nice. Are you a TikToker or YouTuber? YouTube, yes.
I found you! I was a little bit worried that I couldn’t find you. It’s lovely to meet you. Welcome. Thank you so much. How was the flight? It was good; we were sitting on the tarmac in Dubai for two and a half hours, but apart from that, it was great. Oh, it’s on YouTube. Right, well, that was really easy. Here’s my friend, Z. Sal. He’s our van for today, and tomorrow we will have a smaller car. Awesome. I’m interested to see what a Sara is.
Right, well, that was a lovely welcome. Very nice. Coming through the airport was amazing. I was a bit nervous in a country I don’t know, with all the documents, visas, and registration forms. But everyone here was so friendly. I couldn’t even fill out half the form, and they sorted it out for me. Everyone made it easy. I couldn’t find my luggage tag, and they sorted it out. Incredibly helpful and incredibly smiley. My first experience has been really lovely.
We’re driving through Kabul now. This is where people get married — the Stars Palace. It’s an impressive building, isn’t it? Did you get married there? No, not there. Wow, I bet that’s amazing inside. It’s huge — absolutely massive. There are few markets here. Everyone’s out and about. It’s a really nice temperature now — not too hot, not too cold.
I see all the different shops here. I’m just taking it all in. I think you guys like ice cream. Do you like ice cream? There’s a special Afghan ice cream called Shir. Am I going to have to try it? Of course, I’m definitely going to try it. If it’s that good, I’ll have to try it. The biggest flag of the Taliban is up there, blowing in the breeze. Look at this scene — the birds flying. It’s beautiful. It’s a really lovely evening.
Do the shops stay open late? What’s the usual closing time? Around 6:30 or 7:00, most shops close, and people go home. Even in big cities like Mazar-i-Sharif and Kabul, we have electricity issues, and they don’t have customers in the dark. That makes sense, so you get electricity mainly in the daytime.
We’ve arrived at the hotel. I have to get out without tripping. I am struggling to keep my headcarf on. Here we go; this is my hotel. No photography inside, right? I’ll see you on the other side. I’ve got to work out if I can film. Right next door is a shoe shop, if I need any shoes. Oh, look at this lobby. It’s really nice, isn’t it? This reception area looks chilled. Very smart.
My first impression is that I am quite surprised, and I don’t know why. That’s because I didn’t really know what to expect. This is really lovely — the detail, the rugs. Look at this Afghan rug. They’ve got jewelry shops there.
Now I’m going to find my room. This is very swish, isn’t it? These are all for the hotel? This is huge. Right, let’s see what the room is like. Wow, look at this. Massive; it goes all the way up there. Amazing! This is lovely. What a lovely room. There’s a fridge, cupboards, a little desk, and, oh, look, there’s Kabul. Oh my goodness, that’s bonkers. Fairy lights are down there. Look at that view. You’re seeing this with me for the first time. I can’t wait to get out there. A little sofa, a bed, and then the bathroom.
My first impression is that this place is incredibly welcoming and beautiful. Tomorrow we head to Bamiyan, and I can’t wait to see more of Afghanistan. For now, it’s bedtime after a long day of travel.
Exploring Kabul: The Adventure Begins
After a restful night, I woke up to the sound of the bustling city outside my window. The morning light filtered through the curtains, and I felt a rush of excitement about the day ahead. Today, we were heading to Bamiyan, but first, I had a few hours to explore Kabul.
I met Muhammad John in the lobby, ready for the day’s adventures. He greeted me with a warm smile and said, “Good morning! Are you ready to see Kabul?”
Absolutely! I couldn’t wait to dive into the heart of Afghanistan’s capital city.
Our first stop was the Kabul Museum, a place that holds a vast collection of artifacts that tell the rich history of Afghanistan. As we walked through the halls, Muhammad John explained the significance of each exhibit. From ancient Buddhist relics to Islamic art, the museum was a testament to the country’s diverse cultural heritage.
One of the most striking pieces was a giant bronze statue of Buddha, dating back to the 2nd century. “This is from the ancient city of Mes Aynak,” Muhammad John explained. “It’s one of the many treasures we have preserved despite the turmoil.”
The museum also had exhibits on Afghanistan’s more recent history, including the Soviet invasion and the civil war. It was a sobering reminder of the country’s struggles, but also a symbol of resilience.
After the museum, we headed to the bustling Kabul City Center. The streets were alive with activity, with vendors selling everything from spices to handmade crafts. The aroma of Afghan street food wafted through the air, and I couldn’t resist trying some. Muhammad John recommended a local favorite, “bolani,” a type of stuffed flatbread filled with potatoes, green onions, and herbs. It was delicious!
Next, we visited Babur’s Gardens, a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city. The gardens were built by the first Mughal emperor, Babur, and are a beautiful blend of natural beauty and Mughal architecture. We strolled through the terraced gardens, admiring the colorful flowers and the stunning views of Kabul from the top.
As we sat under the shade of a tree, Muhammad John told me more about the history of the gardens. “Babur loved Kabul and wanted to be buried here. His tomb is in the garden, and it’s a place of great cultural and historical significance for us.”
The tranquility of the gardens was a stark contrast to the bustling city outside. It was a moment of reflection and appreciation for the beauty of Afghanistan.
The Journey to Bamiyan
In the afternoon, we set off for Bamiyan, a province famous for its stunning landscapes and historical sites. The drive took us through the majestic Hindu Kush mountains, and the scenery was breathtaking. Snow-capped peaks towered above us, and deep valleys stretched out below. The road wound through picturesque villages where life seemed to move at a slower pace.
As we drove, Muhammad John shared stories about the places we passed. “This area is known for its traditional crafts. Many families here make pottery and weave carpets. It’s a way of life that has been passed down through generations.”
We arrived in Bamiyan in the early evening. The first thing that caught my eye were the giant niches carved into the cliffs, where the famous Buddhas of Bamiyan once stood. These colossal statues, which were destroyed in 2001, were a symbol of Afghanistan’s rich Buddhist heritage.
Standing before the empty niches, I felt a profound sense of loss but also a deep respect for the history that these cliffs had witnessed. Muhammad John explained, “Even though the Buddhas are gone, this place remains a site of cultural importance. Efforts are ongoing to preserve and possibly restore these monuments.”
We checked into a local guesthouse, where we were greeted with warm hospitality. The owner, a kind elderly man, welcomed us with a pot of green tea and a platter of fresh fruit. “Welcome to Bamiyan,” he said with a smile. “I hope you enjoy your stay here.”
Discovering the Natural Beauty of Bamiyan
The next morning, we set out to explore Band-e-Amir National Park, Afghanistan’s first national park. Known for its stunning series of lakes, Band-e-Amir is often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Afghanistan.”
As we approached the park, the landscape changed dramatically. The red rock formations contrasted with the deep blue waters of the lakes, creating a scene that was almost surreal. The water was so clear and blue that it looked like something out of a fairy tale.
We hiked along the trails, taking in the beauty of the natural surroundings. The lakes are fed by natural springs, and the water is rich in minerals, giving it that distinctive blue color. We reached a viewpoint that offered a panoramic view of the entire park, and I was left speechless by the sheer beauty of it all.
“This place is a hidden gem,” I said to Muhammad John. “I can’t believe more people don’t know about it.”
He nodded. “That’s why we’re here—tto show the world the beauty of Afghanistan. There’s so much more to this country than what you see in the media.”
Embracing Afghan Culture and Hospitality
One of the highlights of my trip was the opportunity to spend time with local families and experience Afghan hospitality firsthand. We visited a village in the mountains, where we were welcomed into a family’s home.
The family prepared a feast for us, with dishes like Kabuli pulao (a rice dish with meat and raisins), mantu (dumplings filled with meat and onions), and fresh naan bread. The food was incredible, but what made the experience truly special was the warmth and generosity of the people.
As we sat on the floor, sharing stories and laughter, I felt a deep connection with my hosts. Despite the language barrier, there was a sense of camaraderie and mutual respect. The children were curious about my camera and enjoyed posing for pictures, giggling as they saw themselves on the screen.
Muhammad John translated for me as I asked about their daily lives and traditions. “We have a simple life here,” the father explained. “We work hard, but we are happy. Family and community are very important to us.”
That night, as I lay under a blanket of stars, I reflected on the day’s experiences. It was moments like these that made me realize the true essence of travel: connecting with people, learning about their lives, and sharing in their joys and struggles.
Exploring Afghan History in Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif
Our journey continued to the historic cities of Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif. In Herat, we visited the famous Herat Citadel, a fortress that has stood for centuries and witnessed countless battles and rulers. The architecture was stunning, with intricate tile work and towering minarets.
We also visited the Friday Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Afghanistan. The mosque’s blue-tiled facade and grand courtyard were awe-inspiring. As we walked through the mosque, Muhammad John shared stories of Herat’s rich history and its importance as a center of art and learning.
In Mazar-i-Sharif, we visited the Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also known as the Blue Mosque. The mosque’s bright blue domes and intricate mosaics were a sight to behold. The atmosphere was peaceful and reverent, with pilgrims coming from all over Afghanistan to pay their respects.
One of the most memorable moments in Mazar-i-Sharif was participating in the traditional Nowruz (New Year) celebrations. The city was alive with music, dancing, and colorful parades. It was a joyous occasion, and I felt privileged to be a part of it.
The Heart of Afghanistan: The People
Throughout my journey, the one constant was the incredible hospitality and kindness of the Afghan people. From the bustling markets of Kabul to the serene valleys of Bamiyan, I was welcomed with open arms and treated like family.
The media often portrays Afghanistan as a place of conflict and danger, but my experience was vastly different. Yes, there are challenges, but there is also beauty, resilience, and a deep sense of community.
The Afghan people are some of the kindest and most hospitable I have ever met. They are proud of their heritage and eager to share their stories with visitors. They have endured hardships, but they remain hopeful and optimistic about the future.
Why You Should Travel to Afghanistan in 2024
So, why should you travel to Afghanistan in 2024? This documentary covers my top five reasons:
1. The Afghan People: They are kind, fun, and super hospitable. Many have retained their traditional way of life, especially in the mountains, and are very happy to talk with Americans. Their warmth and generosity will make you feel at home.
2. Afghan Landscapes and Nature: From the red-rock nature of Bamiyan to the crystal-clear blue lakes in Band-e-Amir National Park, Afghanistan’s natural beauty is unparalleled. The snow-capped mountains and lush valleys are a hiker’s paradise.
3. Afghan Food: The cuisine is rich and diverse, with flavors that will tantalize your taste buds. From Kabuli pulao to mantu, the food is a reflection of the country’s cultural heritage and hospitality.
4. Afghan History: The ancient mosques and historical sites in Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif offer a glimpse into the country’s rich past. The museums and archaeological sites are a treasure trove of knowledge and beauty.
5. Afghan Culture: The traditional music, dance, and crafts are a testament to the country’s vibrant culture. Participating in local festivals and celebrations will give you a deeper appreciation for the Afghan way of life.
In my Afghanistan documentary, I’ll take you to these beautiful places and introduce you to the wonderful people who call this country home. Afghanistan in 2024 is much different from what’s shown by the media. Yes, the Taliban are around, but
Most Afghans are happy to see Westerners and eager to share their stories.
Thank you for joining me on this journey. I hope you’ve enjoyed seeing Afghanistan through my eyes and that it inspires you to explore this incredible country for yourself. Safe travels and see you on the next adventure!